Photography Nesties!!

marikoono · February 2010

I know lots of you are avid photographers. Do any of you use flash slaves or tranmitters? I'm looking for some recommendations. I currently shoot Nikon, but am thinking of switching over to Canon. Not sure if there are any brands of slaves or transmitters that works with both brands, but if so, that would ideal. Any suggestions?

cecig · February 2010

I don't have any recs, but you might want to try the photography board:

http://community.thebump.com/cs/ks/forums/7253063/ShowForum.aspx

GL!

SirenSong · February 2010

At the moment, I don't use either, yet so I don't actually have any good advice or recommendations, but there are a couple of websites that might help you out:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/

http://www.dpreview.com/

Why are you thinking of switching to Canon? Do you have a lot of Nikon equipment? Lenses being the thing I'm mainly referring to there.

Canon and Nikon are pretty much as good as each other across the board, so it's kinda like swapping like with like, in my eyes, at a possible expense to you.

Matter of fact, a photog friend of mine, who is a hugely successful wedding photog/ Rolling Stone photog in Vancouver wants to swap from Canon to Nikon! Not sure of her reason/s but it goes to show that there's pluses in both camps.

mrspresley · February 2010

I asked my brother and here is what he said to tell you

Generally, you want to buy Nikon Flashes for Nikon cameras.

When it comes to speedlights, you also generally want to buy the biggest flash your budget can afford, because more power = more possibilities. You'll have more range, and it's more practical to soften your light by bouncing or diffusing if you have power to spare.

The SB-900 is an AMAZING flash, arguably better than the Canon equivalent, the 580EXII. Nikon has the inherent advantage of built in wireless flash control, which Canon largely lacks. (The 7D being a notable exception) The only compelling reason to switch from Nikon to Canon is if you plan on rolling a lot of video. Otherwise, Nikon's lineup is pretty solid right now, especially the pro bodies. Most notable off-camera flash people are using Nikon. Most notable SLR video shooters, however, are using Canon. You can do great stuff with either.

Slaves and transmitters is a whole other ball of wax. The main factors are how much power do you need, and whether you want TTL flash metering.

How much power do you need?
There is basically three levels of flash lighting power:
1) Built in/pop up - about 5 watt-seconds - basically you use that if you have no other options. It's weak AND it's always harsh, but it's cheap, because it's included in the price of the camera.

2) Battery powered speedlights - about 35 Ws - modest power, but it's enough if you have a small area to light, and you're not competing with the sun. Very portable, and you can run and gun with them. Not enough power for classical portraiture, or large areas. Relatively expensive for the amount of light you get. Limited to 100-300 flashes per charge, though AA's are pretty easy to carry. Harsh unless diffused or bounced. but doing so reduces an already modest level of power. Automatic TTL metering available on most.

3) AC powered lights - Monolights are football sized flashes you plug into a wall socket, offering 150-1500 Ws of power. There are pack-lights that are wall powered and battery powered, and but for power output, they are roughly equivalent. Not very portable, can't run and gun. Most require stands and nearby AC outlets. Can easily light up large areas. The most powerful ones can overpower the sun. Relatively cheaper for the amount of light you get. Harsh unless diffused or bounced. but typically have power to spare. Automatic metering is not available on most of them, except for the Quantum system (which sits between monolights and speedlights for power)

Do you require automatic TTL flash metering, or are you comfortable setting your own flash exposure?

Many people like the mobility, convenience and ease of auto-flash (you take it for granted on your small cameras), but some pros prefer the consistency and accuracy of manual flash exposure. Here are the options if you must have automatic TTL flash metering:

1) 10M long hotshoe extension cord, about $50. Hard to find in camera stores, but available on eBay. By far the most reliable way, but is limited by the length of the cord, which also poses a tripping hazard. You can make your own if you're comfortable with splicing ethernet cables and need something longer.. Can sometimes be combined with method #2 to give more reliable triggering.

2) Wireless infrared flash: Nikon's built in CLS, or Canon's eTTL (which requires at least two flashes). They "talk" with light pulses, so the flashes need to "see" each other, so it's limited in range and positioning, especially in bright sunlight, which drowns out the light signals. Unreliable in outdoors. Fairly reliable in small rooms, because the light signals bounce off walls. Nikon's CLS is the cheapest form of off-camera flash if you want automatic flash metering. There are more instructional resources available on CLS for Nikon than eTTL for Canon, by far.

3) ControlTL Pocketwizard: Coming "soon" for Nikon, available now for Canon. Fools the camera into thinking it has a single flash directly on top, and transmits the hotshoe signal via radio. The hypersync mode, if you're a tinkerer, can actually increase your maximum sync speed. Requires a $200 MiniTT1 unit at the camera, and $220 FlexTT5 transceiver at every flash. Very reliable, but very expensive. Can also be used manually. Interoperates with professional light meters and other pocket wizard products.   Can also be used with monolights, and can also be used to trigger other cameras. One big drawback - you cannot configure them without a computer and a usb cable.

4) RadioPopper PX - improve the reliability and range of Canon/Nikon's built in wireless system by converting the light signals to radio signals and back again. Requires a $250 unit at each flash, and requires at least one two flashes, one of which must be on the camera. You can adjust or compensate all remote flashes at the camera. Longer range than the Pocketwizards ControlTL's, and at least as much range as the Pocketwizard Plus units.

5) Quantum: Gives you nearly studio power, wireless triggering, automatic flash exposure. Very modular, so it's expandable to your needs, if a little confusing. Very expensive, but not necessarily any more than high end battery powered studio pack lights.

If you're OK with setting your own flash exposure,
Are you firing monolights (high powered studio lights) or small battery powered speedlights? Cost and range are usually the main factors with radio triggers. (I'm not counting infrared triggers aka optical slaves, because they're outdated, and often thrown in for free in the lights). Sync speed is important if you're shooting outdoors in bright light, but unimportant if you're indoors.

Primarily monolights:
1) PC Sync cables - the old school way of hooking up cameras to flashes. The cables are expensive, delicate, and easy to dislodge. They are a trip hazard, so always tape down your cables. Very, very reliable triggering. Sync speed limited only by camera and lights.
2) 1/4" cables - a slight improvement - cables are cheaper, most robust, and available at music stores. Requires a $20-30 adapter to plug into the camera. Very, very reliable triggering. They are a trip hazard, so always tape down your cables. Sync speed limited only by camera and lights.

Both monolights and speedlights:

1) Pocketwizard Plus - the industry standard. $250 each, and you need one per camera and per flash. Expensive, but reliable and durable. Works with professional light meters. Can be adapted to 1/4" jacks used by monolights, or combined with a hotshoe adapter to use with speedlights. Can be mixed in with Pocketwizard Control TLs mentioned earler. These can be completely configured without a computer. Because they are so popular among pros, it's not uncommon to pick the same channel and cross fire another photographer's flashes. The more expensive Multimax models have more channels.

2) ControlTL Pocketwizard: Coming "soon" for Nikon, available now for Canon. Fools the camera into thinking it has a single flash directly on top, and transmits the hotshoe signal via radio. The hypersync mode, if you're a tinkerer, can actually increase your maximum sync speed. Requires a $200 MiniTT1 unit at the camera, and $220 FlexTT5 transceiver at every flash. Very reliable, but very expensive. Can also be used manually. Interoperates with professional light meters and other pocket wizard products.   Can also be used with monolights, and can also be used to trigger other cameras. One big drawback - you cannot configure them without a computer and a usb cable.

3) Radiopopper JrX - an up and comer. Has the ability to remotely control the light output of your monolights. $140-160 for the starter kit, $80 each additional flash. Can be adapted to 1/4" jacks used by monolights, or combined with a hotshoe adapter to use with speedlights.

4) Paul C. Buff Cybersyncs - this company is known for giving you a well built, USA made product for slightly less than the major brand. They are really becoming a major brand themselves in doing so. Some Cybersync models can remotely adjust monolight power if you also use Paul C Buff monolights, such as Einstein, Alien Bees, or White lightning. They also make AC powered receivers that are powered inline, meaning it can tap into your monolight's power cord. They also make battery powered receivers, which are usable with your speedlights if you buy the proper adapters.

5) Elinchrome Skyport - you can program these extensively with a laptop via USB. Sync speed is reduced more than others, not a problem indoors. Antennas are relatively flimsy. I wouldn't recommend this system.

6) eBay "studio" triggers - what I personally use most often. Also jokingly known as Poverty Wizards. Cost is $30-80 for camera transmitter and three receivers.   I bought mine with 1/8" jacks, which can be adapted to 1/4" jacks used by monolights, or combined with a hotshoe adapter to use with speedlights. Sync speed is usually reduced more than others, not a problem indoors.

Speedlights only:

1) eBay "hotshoe" triggers - Also jokingly known as Poverty Wizards. Cost is $30-80 for camera transmitter and three receivers.   Notorious for being unreliable, though many hack their own antennas for range increase.   Because these are the least flexible solution, and the least reliable one, I would stay away from them. But there are a LOT of photographers who swear by them.

marikoono · February 2010

Thanks girls! Especially MrsPresley! That's a lot of informtion. I've decided to go ahead and purchase the radiopoppers JrX, along with a stand and softbox.

I'm still on the fence about switching, but no worries, I am thoroughly doing my research. I currently shoot Nikon, mainly because my full-time job (military photographer) only purchases Nikon. I been photographing for the military for 8 years (using Nikon), so when it came to buying myself a camera, I stuck with what I know. One of the reasons why I was considering switching is because sometimes Nikon lenses have an issue with focusing. The auto focus sometimes doesn't focus fast enough...and then poof...the action is already done and over with. I haven't heard that issue with Canon. Although I've heard WONDEROUS things about the D3's. That's just not in my budget at this time. (

Photography Nesties!!

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