Decorating & Renovating
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Poll: Which bathroom layout? PIPs

We've gutted our master bathroom. The design is narrowed down to these two:

Option #1

image

Option #2

image

Don't see a difference? It's a tiny difference with a huge impact on the whole project.

The side wall of the shower goes from glass to a framed wall. From a design point of view I think it would make the bathroom look so much bigger to have that wall be glass. However, this complicates the plumbing enormously.

It means putting the shower head on an exterior wall - so building a fake plumbing wall in front of the exterior wall just to hold plumbing. I'd add a vertical half wall to the end of the shower to at least hold the shower valve so it would be accessible for repairs without breaking tile. Moving the bathtub plumbing to the wall on the right or building a knee wall behind the tub to hold the plumbing (shown in option 1).

Option 2 solves all the plumbing dilemmas, but I'm afraid of the bathroom looking like a tiny cave if I frame that wall in.

[poll]

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Re: Poll: Which bathroom layout? PIPs

  • I vote number one for the reasons you listed, but only if it's reasonably in your budget. Since you gave it as an option, I assume it's in your budge. And you would like that final product better, it seems. So it was an easy vote for me. I think it will look better that way too!
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  • I'm going with #2 assuming that the price difference is pretty significant to move the plumbing. I'm assuming the price difference is significant because the question is being asked and because I know that moving plumbing sucks. 

    Are they using pex or copper?  Pex would make the job of moving the plumbing much easier and faster to do.   

  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker

    imageMaineWifey:

    I'm going with #2 assuming that the price difference is pretty significant to move the plumbing. I'm assuming the price difference is significant because the question is being asked and because I know that moving plumbing sucks. 

    Are they using pex or copper?  Pex would make the job of moving the plumbing much easier and faster to do.   

    Moving the plumbing isn't really the issue. All our plumbing drops down from the attic - other than the drains, which are in the slab. The bath is absolutely gutted right now - no walls, no ceiling, no fixtures. So putting the the taps where they go is pretty easy - once I figure where they go, of course.

    ETA: I guess it is the issue because clearly one design is easier on the overall plumbing movement, but I was trying to say that all of the plumbing is moving anyway (we took the bath from 6x8 to 12x8) it's just a matter of how much it moves. Not sure that makes sense?


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  • I'd go with option 1. I don't really see the point in tiling the shower in Option 2, you'd never see it except for when you are in the shower. Why go to all that work or spend all that money on tile. For me if I went with option 2 I think I'd be disappointed with the end result. Option 1 will have such a bigger visual impact when go go into the bathroom. Plus, if your bathroom is already gutted it doesn't seem like option 1 would be that much more work. 
  • imageneeps:

    imageMaineWifey:

    I'm going with #2 assuming that the price difference is pretty significant to move the plumbing. I'm assuming the price difference is significant because the question is being asked and because I know that moving plumbing sucks. 

    Are they using pex or copper?  Pex would make the job of moving the plumbing much easier and faster to do.   

    Moving the plumbing isn't really the issue. All our plumbing drops down from the attic - other than the drains, which are in the slab. The bath is absolutely gutted right now - no walls, no ceiling, no fixtures. So putting the the taps where they go is pretty easy - once I figure where they go, of course.

     

    ETA: I guess it is the issue because clearly one design is easier on the overall plumbing movement, but I was trying to say that all of the plumbing is moving anyway (we took the bath from 6x8 to 12x8) it's just a matter of how much it moves. Not sure that makes sense?


    Then go with the first one if that's what you like better. 

  • Dumb question--- where is the door to get into the toilet?  I know this wasn't part of your question at all , but is there a window in the toilet closet?  Because if you are moving plumbing around anyways I would prefer the toilet be on the exterior wall facing towards the rest of the bathroom.  
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  • I voted #2 since the location of the tub faucets is a no-no to me.  Smile
  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker

    imageLaurenSweat:
    Dumb question--- where is the door to get into the toilet?  I know this wasn't part of your question at all , but is there a window in the toilet closet?  Because if you are moving plumbing around anyways I would prefer the toilet be on the exterior wall facing towards the rest of the bathroom.  

    It's a pocket door in the longer wall. No window in there. I would prefer the toilet that way as well and had it that way until I remembered that if I flip the toilet around to the exterior wall I have to build a phony wall for the water supply and vent to run through. So you would go from 26 inches of clear space in front the toilet rim to the code minimum of 21.

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  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker

    imaged0ri:
    I voted #2 since the location of the tub faucets is a no-no to me.  Smile

    Can you explain this please?

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  • I really like #1. If moving the plumbing is not the huge issue, just framing the half walls - then it's a no brainer to me. That extra labor is going to open up that bathroom so much more. Plus just think of the beautiful tiling you could do in the shower  that would show through all the glass.

     

     

    Kim - partner, friend and lover to Josh; mama to stinky-pants Jackson (7.17.07) and farty-mcgoo Kate (1.14.11) "Little monkey on my chest I hush my soul to hear your breath. My favorite sound, your tiny snores I swear my life to uphold yours"
  • I picked #2.  I guess I'm just not all that crazy about the wall of glass right next to the tub. I like that tub is kind of in it's on cozy nook with the wall and the fact that the plumbing would be easier is a perk.
  • I voted for #1.

    We have a similar layout in our master bath, in our bathroom the sinks and toilet are flip-flopped from your layout, but other than that, it's the same. When we bought the house, the  wall between the shower & tub was part of a cheap pre-fab shower surround, it was opaque & textured glass (you couldn't see through it). We remodeled, and didn't change the layout, but tiled the shower and installed frameless glass. That one simple change made our bathroom look so much bigger, it just opened the place up.

    We didn't have to do plumbing on an exterior wall for that layout (our master closet is on the other side of the shower), but I still highly recommend the frameless glass.

    image
    Mr. Sammy Dog
  • I don't think it would be that cave-like... more cozy feeling. Which is what I'd want when I'm taking a bath. Plus, my H has drilled it into me to never move a wet wall when you don't have to!
    image
  • Is there a third option here?

    What if your ran the shower horizontally along the back wall? You could have the plumbing for the shower on the wall that divides the toilet from the shower. This may interefere with your pocket door, I understand, but I think that could be worked around. Its just something about the small "hallway" looking space between the toilet and shower bothers me. That would be my suggestion, FWIW. 

  • In my professional opinion I'd go with #1.  #2 will feel really closed in. 


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  • Instead of making the shower wall glass, how about getting rid of the box around the toilet? That would open up the room without the need for complicated plumbing.
  • imageneeps:

    imaged0ri:
    I voted #2 since the location of the tub faucets is a no-no to me.  Smile

    Can you explain this please?

    Because the controls are not easily accessible. That's just me though.

    I find #2 ok, but I would do a completely different layout if you can move the toilet.

  • Or what about a compromise like this? Its obviously just a sketch and not to scale.

    image

     

  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker

    d0ri - didn't even think of that for the faucets.

    Knitty - no idea what you're talking about. How is eliminating the toilet enclosure going to get the plumbing out of the exterior walls?

    TheycallmeLiz and sjb&apa  - You're geniuses!!

    I drew up what you both described. And I love it. It gets the plumbing out of the external walls - except the toilet, but I can live with that. Here's what option #3 looks like.

    image

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  • I think thats a great revision and it gives you almost 2 feet next to the sink of extra space in case you need more storage or to add robe hook or whatever. Great look!
  • Option #3 is sooooo much better.  I like the placement of everything and you get rid of all the wasted space.
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  • Awesome sketchup models!!  It's it so much easier to visual things using that? 

    I like #3 the best but here are some suggestions.  

    Unless you plan to take the shower glass enclosure to the ceiling you'll want to move the shower door to hinge on a wall.  We have the same issue in our master so we're going to have to take it to the ceiling which equals more cost and a different look.  I would either move the door to the wall or add a small full length wall where that small glass panel is.  A little wall there may look strange so draw it out first.  If you had a wall there you could add a full length bench there too which would be a nice feature.  

    Remember no shower niches on exterior walls.  I'm sure you knew that but you'd be surprised how many people come on this board and want to do that.  ; )  With that layout you have lots of opportunity to hide niches in non-exterior walls though. 

    I would consider changing that toilet room corner to be an angle instead with a swinging door on it.  An angle I think will make the space feel a little more integrated into the room and not stick out so much. 

    A pocket door how you have it drawn in #3 will reduce the integrity of the tile on the shower wall because the wall will be flimsy and hollow.  So either way avoid a pocket door. 

    I like the extra deep wall behind the toilet.  Smart thinking.  I just wrote out a whole paragraph on ways to avoid the cold water pipe in the wall but then I took another look and noticed that wall is extra deep LOL.  We just moved two toilets to exterior walls and went with floor mounted supply lines because the plumbing was from below (see pic) but I like this idea best for plumbing from above.  

    image 

    I would consider some type of wainscoting or other paneling in the toilet room if it goes with your decor.  That way you can hide an access panel in there for the tub plumbing.  Being able to get to those shut off valves is always good.  Here's our hidden access panel for the shower/tub combo:

     image

    Now you see it.

    image 

    Now you don't.  Well except for that small screw on the top we're going to paint white.

    Other than that I really love your plan!  When are you going to start this remodel?  Anytime soon? 

  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    imageFoxinFiji:
    Awesome sketchup models!!  It's it so much easier to visual things using that? 

    I love Sketchup. It's addictive though.

    I like #3 the best but here are some suggestions.  

    Unless you plan to take the shower glass enclosure to the ceiling you'll want to move the shower door to hinge on a wall.  We have the same issue in our master so we're going to have to take it to the ceiling which equals more cost and a different look.  I would either move the door to the wall or add a small full length wall where that small glass panel is.  A little wall there may look strange so draw it out first.  If you had a wall there you could add a full length bench there too which would be a nice feature.  

    I was actually planning on a sliding door and just had the hinge door components already in my sketchup from the other million drawings I've done of this bathroom. Interesting idea with the seat and wall though. Someone also suggested that I extend the vanity all the way to the shower and then have a pony wall on the left. I like the theory of it, but 100 inches of vanity?? Seems like overkill - even with two sinks.

    Remember no shower niches on exterior walls.  I'm sure you knew that but you'd be surprised how many people come on this board and want to do that.  ; )  With that layout you have lots of opportunity to hide niches in non-exterior walls though.

    None on my walls. Rookie mistake :)

    I would consider changing that toilet room corner to be an angle instead with a swinging door on it.  An angle I think will make the space feel a little more integrated into the room and not stick out so much. 

    Interesting. I'll have to draw it (of course) and see if I can do the extra wall behind the toilet and an angle door and still meet the code requirement for clear space in front of the toilet.

    A pocket door how you have it drawn in #3 will reduce the integrity of the tile on the shower wall because the wall will be flimsy and hollow.  So either way avoid a pocket door. 

    Also interesting. Even if we beefed up the cross sections of the pocket door with 2x4 instead of those flismy 1x they put on them? Then the cbu would be screwed to 2x4s just like a regular framed wall. It would mean a slightly thicker wall there, but the shower space can take it. Google here I come.

    I like the extra deep wall behind the toilet.  Smart thinking.  I just wrote out a whole paragraph on ways to avoid the cold water pipe in the wall but then I took another look and noticed that wall is extra deep LOL.  We just moved two toilets to exterior walls and went with floor mounted supply lines because the plumbing was from below (see pic) but I like this idea best for plumbing from above.  

    It's not ideal, but the code really screwed us out of any other options on this one. Pipes are banned in exterior walls in areas with a winter design temperature of 32 degrees and lower. Where does Houston sit on the chart? 32 degrees. For real? I can count on one hand the number of days in the last five years that it's been 32 degrees. So big fat toilet wall we will do.

    image 

    I would consider some type of wainscoting or other paneling in the toilet room if it goes with your decor.  That way you can hide an access panel in there for the tub plumbing.  Being able to get to those shut off valves is always good.  Here's our hidden access panel for the shower/tub combo:

     image

    Now you see it.

    image 

    Now you don't.  Well except for that small screw on the top we're going to paint white.

    Clever.

    Other than that I really love your plan!  When are you going to start this remodel?  Anytime soon? 

    Already started. I pulled my permit last week.  We gutted it Easter weekend. Nothing but studs and rafters left. New window is framed out with the hurricane requirements. We'll finish the interior framing tomorrow. Plumbing and electrical in the next two weeks. Then we should be good to do cover up. Have to cover in compliance with shear walls in high wind locations (which basically means a crap ton of screws so it takes awhile) and get inspected for wind resistance, but after that it's just pretty it up the box we built.

    FYI - I know how thorough you are. :) I did talk to my inspector yesterday about the need to submit revised plans. From what I originally provided for the permit (none of the options here - lol) we basically just flipped the toilet and shower. He's cool with that. Said I didn't need to resubmit we could just write "plan flipped" on the plans and it'll be all good.
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  • imageneeps:

    A pocket door how you have it drawn in #3 will reduce the integrity of the tile on the shower wall because the wall will be flimsy and hollow.  So either way avoid a pocket door. 

    Also interesting. Even if we beefed up the cross sections of the pocket door with 2x4 instead of those flismy 1x they put on them? Then the cbu would be screwed to 2x4s just like a regular framed wall. It would mean a slightly thicker wall there, but the shower space can take it. Google here I come.

    If you beef up the wall no it shouldn't be a problem at all.  But yes the little 1xs would allow too much flex for rigid thinset, tile, and grout.  It wouldn't happen right away but eventually the grout or caulk on that wall would crack. 

    It's hard to tell from the angle how much that corner of the toilet room wall sticks out past the tub edge but if it's a lot chopping off the corner to make a small angled wall might be something to consider.  It would make the transition from the tub to the shower flow better.  

    I agree a 100'' vanity is a little much.  It would cost a lot more for both the custom cabinetry and the top.  The space next to it provides a place to hide a small trashcan or a hamper or something decorative.  Otherwise you could extend it to the shower and split the sinks with an open area in the middle to sit and put on makeup.  I've also seen vanities split and open shelving the same color between them. 

    Sounds like you have a lot of extra requirements for construction down there!  We don't have wind or hurricane issues but we do get much, much colder than 32!  Well good luck!  Make sure to post some pics when you're finished!  That is a nice fast pace.  Are you DIYing or hiring it out?

     

     

  • i like a little privacy in the shower.. i think it would be nice to have it so that when you walk into the bathroom you dont see straight into the shower.. now I know no one has high traffic in the bathroom but that is just what i feel..
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  • neepsneeps member
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    imageFoxinFiji:

    If you beef up the wall no it shouldn't be a problem at all.  But yes the little 1xs would allow too much flex for rigid thinset, tile, and grout.  It wouldn't happen right away but eventually the grout or caulk on that wall would crack. 

    It's hard to tell from the angle how much that corner of the toilet room wall sticks out past the tub edge but if it's a lot chopping off the corner to make a small angled wall might be something to consider.  It would make the transition from the tub to the shower flow better.  

    I agree a 100'' vanity is a little much.  It would cost a lot more for both the custom cabinetry and the top.  The space next to it provides a place to hide a small trashcan or a hamper or something decorative.  Otherwise you could extend it to the shower and split the sinks with an open area in the middle to sit and put on makeup.  I've also seen vanities split and open shelving the same color between them. 

    Sounds like you have a lot of extra requirements for construction down there!  We don't have wind or hurricane issues but we do get much, much colder than 32!  Well good luck!  Make sure to post some pics when you're finished!  That is a nice fast pace.  Are you DIYing or hiring it out?

    The tub is 30" wide and the toilet wall is 35". Not much difference. The toilet wall and the entry wall on the right are also the same size.

    The angle wall doesn't work. It intrudes into the required clear space in front of the toilet. It would have made things a little less boxy I agree.

    I'm considering two 48" vanities instead of a monster 100". Also leaves room for a towel bar.

    I'll take my hurricanes over your winters any day :)

    Mostly DIY. Local code requires hiring out the electrical. And we're hiring out the plumbing because of all the slab work that has to be done.

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